In the bustling streets of Mexico City, a unique automotive symphony reverberates through the air. The conductor of this mechanical orchestra is none other than the classic Volkswagen Beetle, affectionately known as the “Vocho.” This iconic German-born car has found a second homeland in the hilly neighborhoods on the city’s fringes, where it reigns supreme against a backdrop of concrete houses stacked like boxes.
Janette Navarro’s 1996 Vocho roars as it climbs a steep incline, a common sight in the northern neighborhood of Cuautepec. This area, so densely populated with classic Beetles, has earned the nickname “Vocholandia.” Here, taxi drivers like Navarro have an unspoken agreement with their beloved Bugs: these cars, with their engines located in the back, provide the necessary power to tackle the neighborhood’s challenging hills. The affordability of these vehicles further cements their status as the preferred mode of transportation for many locals.
The streets of Cuautepec are a living, breathing museum of automotive history. Some of the Beetles wobble along, paint faded and bodies battered from years of service. Yet, others are pristinely maintained, dressed to impress with custom modifications. A driver named his bright blue Bug “Gualupita” in honor of his wife, Guadalupe, adding a personal touch with aluminum flames shooting out from beneath the VW logo. Such embellishments are a testament to the deep affection and pride Beetle owners have for their cars.
David Enojosa, a car mechanic whose family has run a small shop in the city for years, reminisces about the golden days when their business thrived primarily on Beetle parts and maintenance. However, he now faces a grim reality. With the decline in demand, Enojosa predicts that this trend will cause their shop to pivot away from the classic Vocho in just a few years. His grease-stained hands are a poignant reminder of the countless hours spent reviving these automotive relics.
Despite the challenges, some Beetle enthusiasts refuse to let go. Joaquín Peréz, for instance, sees his 1991 white Beetle, styled after the famous Herbie, as more than just a car. It’s a rolling heirloom, a piece of family history that he intends to preserve against all odds. Unfortunately, the hunt for specific parts often turns into a scavenger hunt, with less fortunate drivers making endless laps around the neighborhood, only to come up empty-handed. For many, the ultimate heartbreak comes when their beloved Beetles fail emissions inspections, rendering them immobile.
In these hilly outskirts of Mexico City, the Vocho isn’t merely a mode of transport; it’s a cultural icon, a testament to resilience, and a symbol of familial legacy. As the future of these beloved Beetles hangs in the balance, one thing remains certain: their roaring engines and distinctive shapes will forever be etched in the heart and soul of Mexico City’s automotive landscape.